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Palate-pleasers in Louisville

Thursday, May 1, 2008

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I lived in Louisville in the early '90s when I was a graduate student at the University of Colorado. Back then, the town's culinary climate left a lot to be desired, save for Colacci's (now the Empire) and the Blue Parrot, an old-school Italian joint that has withstood the test of time for reasons that, quite frankly, are unfathomable to me. But urban sprawl has turned this formally sedate town into a lively mini-metropolis, and now, all along the main drag, noteworthy restaurants and cafes are popping up like spring tulips. Aside from the Empire Lounge and Restaurant, here's a roundup of other joints to check out:

* At the Waterloo Icehouse (809 S. Main St.; waterloolouisville.com), the juice-dribbling, hand-formed burgers are the main draw, but the sandwiches, soups and salads are equally admirable.

* B.O.B.S Sandwich Shop (820 Main St.; 303-665-1056) specializes in high-rise deli sandwiches, but the skin-on french fries, skinny as pencils and dusted with salt, pepper and spices, are fantastic.

* The morning madness during weekend brunch hours at Huckleberry's (700 Main St.; thehuckle berry.com) can dampen your spirits, but the big-as-your-face pancakes, mixed-berry crepes and potato latkes will lighten your mood, if not your waistline.

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