eat! drink! shop!: Breckenridge

By Maria Cote, Rocky Mountain News (Contact)

Monday, March 3, 2008

Marie Griffin © The Rocky

Crepes a la Cart owner Alex LaMarca carries supplies into the structure's only door as he gets ready for a busy day.

Marie Griffin © The Rocky

The snowy scene in front of the Bay Street Company will be a garden wonderland in spring.

Marie Griffin © The Rocky

It's a little slice of the past at Vintage Snow; you'll find vintage ski sweaters from the 1940s, skis from the '20s and "modern"-era snowboards from the '60s.

From thriving gold-mining town to thriving ski mecca in just under 150 years. That's quite an accomplishment.

If you know it's a seven-minute ride up the Independence superchair and you're ready to ride the Appaloosa on Peak 10, you don't need us to tell you where to rent skis (you own 'em anyhow) or where to hunt down bargains on Gore-Tex snowboard coats (you own three anyhow). But you can't spend every hour on the slopes, so we've scoped out the many hot spots in town to ensure you get your fill of fine food, fine drink and fine stuff.

Whether you're a twentysomething up for a week on spring break or a mom planning a long weekend in the mountains with the family, drink in the history. Breckenridge has more than 350 historic structures, many of them charming Victorian buildings.

For more information on the history of the town and its colorful characters - from Father John Lewis Dyer to Trygve Berge - visit the Breckenridge Welcome Center, 203 S. Main St. You'll find information on walking tours, as well as locations of historical museums.

Crepes a la Cart

The sweet little cart arrived in Breckenridge about 30 years ago. Over the years, it's been everything from a hot-dog stand to an information booth, a burrito cart to a coffee caterer. In 2001, it found its true calling, thanks to Alex LaMarca and his mom, Arlene. It was meant to be a treasure trove of crepes.

"I'm told by many people that we've lasted longer than anyone else," Alex said. The lines of hungry locals and tourists stretching down the street from 9 a.m. to the wee hours of the morning are the reason.

"We get all ages," says Alex, who hung out and snowboarded Breck for a year before catching the entrepreneurial bug. "We get families with little kids, we get the after-ski crowd, we get the after-drinks crowd."

From savory (think Chicken Philly Cheese Steak crepes) to sweet (think chocolate), the delicacies produced in this humble 14-foot cart are a hit.

Another sign of a prosperous business? Expansion. A new location is expected in Boulder at Broadway and Pearl Street, in addition to the one in place at FlatIron Crossing in Broomfield.

* Don't miss: Funky monkey - peanut butter, chocolate and banana all nestled into a thin, delicious blanket. Need we say more? A deal at $6.50.

* Crepes a la Cart, 307 S. Main St.; 1-970-453-0622, crepesalacarts.com

Hibberd McGrath Gallery

Breck is jammed full of fine galleries, enough to keep any art lover amused for an afternoon. We chose Hibberd McGrath (another winner: the Breckenridge Gallery) because it's just a little funkier than the rest. The gallery specializes in small-scale textiles and fine crafts. It's been around for 25 years, and the owners are faithful to many of the artists who first showed here.

* Don't miss: the colorful work of Ed Larson, who paints, carves and even quilts.

* 101 N. Main St., 970-453-6391, Hibberdmcgrath.com

Weber's Books & Drawings

Sure, you can find the latest best-sellers in this tiny shop that's been around for more than 20 years, but wind through narrow aisles and crammed corners to discover scores of biking, hiking and camping guides; puzzles to entertain the family; posters and photo albums. Where do the drawings come in? We found our favorites adorning cards, many by local artists who have lovingly depicted the many Victorian homes in the charming town.

* Don't miss: Store owners Jolanta and Charles Weber bought the rights to the book Blasted, Beloved, Breckenridge ($34.95). Leaf through pages to learn about the early days of the mining town. Beloved we can all understand, but blasted? Well, think mining, but also recognize that in the early days, not everyone got rich in the town.

* 100 S. Main St., 970-453-4723, webersbooks.com

Vintage Snow

We avoided the many ski outfitters and outdoor-clothing stores in town but couldn't resist this sweet spot. It's a little slice of the past; you'll find vintage ski sweaters from the 1940s, skis from the '20s, "modern"-era snowboards from the '60s (they were called "Snurfers" back then), historical photos of Breck and home-decor items (think tables made of old sleighs).

* Don't miss: Take a few minutes to watch old ski films on a 1949 Admiral TV set. Those classic ski films are for sale on DVD.

* 226 S. Main St., 970-453-2447, vintagesnow.net

Big City Blues

Sit down for this one: The specialty of this women's clothing shop? Yup. Jeans. But you'll also find racks filled with cashmere sweaters, Michael Stars tops, a small-but-sweet collection of underwear, and peasant tops. Good luck leaving empty-handed, fashionistas.

* Don't miss: Head to the back of the store and take your pick of party dresses.

* 226 S. Main St., 970-453-3065

Stage Fright

This tiny shop, which has been around for five years, is packed from front to back with merchandise guaranteed to delight pop-culture fans. From movie posters and rock-band T-shirts to action figures of your favorite stars and celebrity costumes (who wouldn't love a Teletubbies Adult Tinky Winky costume?), this is your spot. Warning to parents: That Mario key chain that blares familiar tunes at the touch of a button? Don't let the kids talk you into it. It's a long drive back to Denver.

* Don't miss: You can't go wrong with a Dumb and Dumber poster ($9.99).

* 500 S. Main St., 970-547-4465, stage-fright.com

Relish

You won't need to look out at the mountain views to know you're in the Centennial State. From chef Matt Fackler's menu, you might choose Grilled Colorado Lamb Loin Chop, Buffalo Meatloaf Sliders or Pistachio Roasted Tomato Grilled Trout. We loved the blend of rich flavors in the Porcini Seared Venison Rack. Don't come here if you're pinching pennies or looking for a quiet romantic dinner. This is a lively spot, filled with folks who still have plenty of money and energy after a long day on the slopes.

* Don't miss: Yeah, we know you want to save your appetite, but dig into the bread basket (filled with a variety of goodies from La Francaise French Bakery down the road).

* 137 S. Main St., 970-453-0989, relishbreckenridge.com/

Breckenridge Brewery

Sure, you could head over to the LoDo location on Blake Street, but it's just not the same. While we like the Denver spot, you're unlikely to be surrounded by twenty somethings

sporting Burton ski jackets. And you won't be in a gritty brew

pub with a close-up view of the slopes. Stick to the appetizers and the brew-house favorites--good fattening fare like nachos and fried fish. Though after a pint or two of an award-winning Trademark Pale Ale or Oatmeal Stout, even the slightly overcooked ahi tuna is pretty good.

*Don't miss: The beer, of course. And parents, this sprawling, slightly noisy spot is a perfect spot for your sprawling, slightly noisy kids.

* 600 S. Main St., 970-453-1550, breckbrew.com/

The Bay Street Co.

Breathe deeply. Notice it? Past the scent of piney candles, it's there: the slightly musty, woody scent of an old building. This late-1800s miner's cottage is now a gift shop stuffed with everything from French pottery to pillows, from sculptures to table linens. We love the taste displayed by Dodie Bingham and daughters Candice Van Runkle and Judy Girvin.

* Don't miss: It's free! Head to the mountains in the late spring or the summer to catch the garden in front of the shop. Depending on the month, you're likely to see crocus, lilies, poppies or peonies. It's a landmark, nurtured for years, first by Dodie, now by Candice.

* 232 S. Main St., 970-453-6303, baystreetcompany.com

Kristina Gold Jewelry Design

The initial lure? You're a snoop. It's like peeking into someone's home, as the shop is nestled in one of Breck's charming old buildings. You half expect to be greeted by a demure lady in a vintage gown. But no, what greets you is gold and silver. Kristina, and most of the others who work there, are goldsmiths. Most of the jewelry in this gem of a shop is handmade in Breckenridge.

* Don't miss: Check out Jayson Brown's earrings and pendants. There's plenty of silver to be found in this golden treasure.

* 400 S. Main St., 970-453-4238, kristinagold.com

Don't miss!

* What: the eighth annual Spring Massive festival

* When: April 1 to 20

* Events: entertainment, family fun and competitions. Events include free outdoor concerts, Bite of Breckenridge, a Massive Beer Festival and Comedy Nights.

* Information: 1-800-936-5573, gobreck.com

Parking:

Pay lots are available at several locations off Park Avenue.