WEINBERG'S WINE NOTES: Roses blossom during summer

By Ben Weinberg, Rocky Mountain News (Contact)

Published July 29, 2008 at 3 p.m.

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I'm not always into whites during the sticky doldrums of summer. And red wines, with their attendant heavy meals and the drag they impose on my metabolism, don't usually help my disposition during the vernal season. So I try to eat more lightly and imbibe more gently than I would when the air is naturally chilled. That's why for me, when it's summertime, the living is rose.

Dry pink wines may not seem like a natural fit with hot- weather victuals, but a generally high acidity and a mixture of savory and fruity aromas and flavors make them a natural match with pretty much any type of food. They're more substantial than whites yet lighter than reds, and they pair well with everything from cheese to beef, from fruit and vegetables to pulled pork and barbecue.

There are several ways to make a rose-tinged wine, but all involve using red-skinned grapes in some way. The Saignee process, a very traditional way of making rose, involves bleeding off some of the lighter juice that naturally collects at the bottom of a barrel of otherwise deeply red wine.

The cap of purple skins floating at the top of the barrel isn't in direct contact with this lower fraction, which thus has less coloration but tons of flavor. It's a gutsy style of rose, and I particularly like the relatively stout Torbreck Saignee from Australia, with its herbal highlights and bright cherry flavor.

There are several other methods of preparing pink wine, including pulling the skins out of contact with the juice after a very short while, sometimes just a matter of hours. Two of this type that I go for are the Corte Gardoni Chiaretto Rosato from the Veneto in northern Italy, bright and acidic with lovely raspberry and gooseberry elements, and the delicately spicy, dry and elegant Muga Rose from Rioja, Spain.

Germany has gotten into the rose business in a big way. The northerly climate provides cooler days and a delicate acidity that can sometimes get lost in wines from farther south. I recommend the floral, delicately raspberry-flavored Knipser Rose Trocken, made from Cabernet and a sprinkling of other varietals.

Just as with many other wine types, some of the best examples come from France. If you really want to treat yourself, grab a bottle of the Tempier Bandol Rose, one of the most famous wine houses in the world. This is a serious drink that usually requires good food to strut its stuff, but a savage, tart, almost briny quality also makes this passion-fruit-scented monster a joy on a hot summer day.

Finally, it's probably become apparent to those of you who regularly read this column that I'm a fan of sparkling wine, and rose is no exception. Sparkling rose is increasing in popularity, and some of the most exciting work is being done in South America.

A good one to try is the crisply strawberry, rose-petal-infused R. Celestina Sparkling Rose of Malbec, produced by legendary winemaker Susana Balbo in Mendoza, Argentina. Of course, France also is prominent in this category, and a delightful version is the Philipponnat Champagne Rose Reserve Brut, with toasty and nutty aromas and a smoky strawberry edge.

One side note: While a large portion of the pink wine business is devoted to sweet interpretations of otherwise dry, red juice (white zinfandel, white merlot, etc.), these are a relatively recent invention and not something I regularly quaff. However, there's nothing wrong with drinking the wines you enjoy, and if you like white cabernet, by all means, imbibe. It will certainly taste better in the heat than its heavier cousin.

Rose wines can be a welcome and natural addition to your summertime table and also are terrific on their own. I go through a lot of pink-touched bottles at this time of year, and so do most of my wine-savvy friends. So when the sun gets hot, don't be shy about putting on your rose-colored glasses.

benweinberg@comcast.net

Recommended

ROSE

* Torbreck Saignee Rose 2006 (Barossa Valley, Australia) $18

* Corte Gardoni Chiaretto Rosato 2007 (Veneto, Italy) $16

* Muga Rose 2007 (La Rioja, Spain) $17

* Knipser Rose Trocken 2007 (Pfalz, Germany) $20

* Tempier Bandol Rose 2007 (Provence, France) $45

SPARKLING ROSE

* R. Celestina Sparkling Rose of Malbec 2006 (Mendoza, Argentina) $18

* Philipponnat Brut Rose Reserve Champagne NV (Mareuil-sur-Ay, France) $50

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