MEITUS: Grocers bolster gluten-free lines

By Marty Meitus, Rocky Mountain News (Contact)

Published July 15, 2008 at 3 p.m.
Updated July 15, 2008 at 3:10 p.m.

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Five years ago, Pam Jones was down to 87 pounds before a doctor finally diagnosed her stomach ailments correctly. Jones, an assistant store manager for King Soopers in Colorado Springs, has celiac disease, a digestive malfunction brought on by abnormal reaction to glutens. She must avoid such foods as wheat, rye and barley.

As more people are diagnosed - some 3 million people suffer from it - companies are stepping up to the plate. First, small restaurants/ bakeries such as Deby's Gluten Free Gourmet in Denver began to find solutions, now the "big guys" are getting on board.

At a media launch last week, King Soopers introduced its expanded line of gluten- and wheat-free products. Jones was instrumental in getting the program off the ground, approaching her employer when she found that she was having trouble finding the gluten-free products that she - and her customers - were looking for.

A new gluten-free tag appears on the packaging of a wide range of products, from ketchup to pasta, that will make them easier to identify. And Colorado- based Udi's Bakery has signed on to produce a line of wheat- and gluten-free products sold at the stores.

Etai Bar-on of Udi's passed out samples of cinnamon rolls, blueberry muffins and bread at the launch. Although many gluten-free products are made of rice flour, Udi's Chad White, a master baker and partner in Udi's Gluten-Free, found a way to use tapioca and potato starch to improve texture and product.

"It makes a dough that you can shape, rather than a batter that you pour. You could even make an artisan-like bread." (For a recipe from Udi's, see Recipe, Please 14.)

I tried a couple of bites of pasta; it tastes no different than any other pasta. Then I slipped out to enjoy a tasty gluten-free snickerdoodle cookie in my car. So many products . . . so little time.

And speaking of launches . . . When I was having dinner with my buddy Maryann Yuthas of the Grand Hyatt Denver Downtown, Chef Tom Baranoucky introduced me to their new green menu at the hotel restaurant, 1876. In partnership with the Denver Botanic Gardens and its Urban Nature Exhibit, the restaurant is featuring a special prix fixe menu showcasing Colorado herbs and other indigenous products.

Offered in addition to the restaurant's regular a la carte selections, the $52.80 per couple (tax and gratuity not included) menu includes some great offerings - Crispy Skin Colorado Striped Bass and Tarragon and Tomato Risotto, Fava Beans and Leek Vinaigrette or Sage and Rosemary Smoked Pork Tenderloin With Creamy Corn Studded Polenta, Charred Vegetable Coulis and Rosemary Apple Syrup. You also get a recipe card from the chef for his homemade herbal salad dressing and tips on growing herbs in the region from Denver Botanic Gardens Director of Horticulture Sarada Krishnan.

For more info, on the prix fixe dinner or the tie-in with the Botanic Gardens exhibit, go to granddenver.hyatt.com.

Just to whet your appetite, you'll find a recipe for Baranoucky's cauliflower soup on 5. Try some of those unusual-colored cauliflowers, if you really want to walk on the wild side.

Cauliflower Soup

Serves 8

1 head cauliflower, florets separated

1 1/2 cups diced onions

1/2 cup diced parsnips

1/2 cup diced celery

1 garlic clove, minced

1 shallot, minced

1/2 cup white wine

1/2 lemon, juiced

1 1/2 quarts chicken or vegetable stock

1 bay leaf, 4 white peppercorns, 1 sprig chervil, 1 sprig thyme, wrapped and tied in cheesecloth

Salt and white pepper to taste

2 cups heavy cream

* Saute cauliflower florets, onions, parsnips, celery, garlic and shallot, covered, in a small amount of butter. Season with salt.

* When onions are completely wilted and translucent, deglaze with wine and lemon juice. Allow the wine to cook off.

* Add the chicken stock and the sachet of herbs and spices and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer, add cream, and simmer for 45 minutes.

* Remove cheesecloth bag and puree the soup with a hand blender or in a blender, in batches.

* Strain through a fine strainer and adjust the thickness if necessary by reducing further. Season with salt and white pepper.

Nutritional information per serving: 316 cal., 24 g fat (14 g sat), 87 mg chol., 15 g carb., 7 g pro., 2 g fiber, 303 mg sodium

• July 16, 2008

  5:25 a.m.

  Suggest removal

  Johntrythisone writes:

  Marty,
  thanks for the column. My wife is celiac and when we shop we have to read every label and have a company reference handy. The Gluten free markers are very helpful, and hopefully more companies will list this allergen/condition.

• July 16, 2008

  11:37 a.m.

  Suggest removal

  alek writes:

  As a parent of two boys with Celiac Disease, ditto what the previous poster said Marty. My wife was ecstatic when she attended a gluten-free shin-dig a month ago where King Soopers mentioned their expansion of gluten-free foods and enhanced labeling.

  Most gluten-free breads taste like bricks or hockey pucks ... but as my kids attested then (and now), Udi's bread is by far the best gluten-free bread they have tried - they (and their Big Green Buddy) say it is SMASHING! ;-)
  http://www.komar.org/hulk/kids-hulk.jpg
  We had to go to three King Sooper's last week to find more - they all said it's so darn popular it's flying off the shelves - great job Udi's.

  I didn't see a way to thank Pam Jones personally for her efforts, but hopefully she reads these comment and great job Pam!

  Alek Komarnitsky
  Lafayette

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