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SKI SCHOOL: Monarch by snowcat - it's the only way to fly

By Craig McNeil, Rocky Mountain News

Published February 12, 2008 at 12:45 a.m.

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Monarch snowcats prowl terrain where the snow is rumored to be bottomless.

Photo by Craig McNeil / Special to the Rocky

Monarch snowcats prowl terrain where the snow is rumored to be bottomless.

Monarch snowcats prowl terrain where the snow is rumored to be bottomless.

Photo by Craig McNeil / Special to the Rocky

Monarch snowcats prowl terrain where the snow is rumored to be bottomless.

Fresh tracks in waist-deep snow are the reward for snowcat skiers. Guides seek out the best snow for maximum powder.

Photo by Craig McNeil / Special to the Rocky

Fresh tracks in waist-deep snow are the reward for snowcat skiers. Guides seek out the best snow for maximum powder.

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Last week I shared my adventure in the steep and deep of Crested Butte. The next leg of my journey took me to Monarch Mountain for a day of snowcat skiing.

Monarch is one of the unsung Gems of the Rockies, a consortium of smaller resorts that includes Arapahoe Basin, Eldora, Loveland, Powderhorn, Ski Cooper, Sol Vista and Sunlight.

Monarch, located on the Continental Divide, is a pleasant surprise because it offers magnificent skiing in the heart of the Colorado Rockies, away from Interstate 70. Besides the deep snow for which it's known, the ski area offers a variety of inbounds terrain that ranges from family-friendly to expert. Recent renovations have brought the lodge, ski school and rental facilities into the 21st century - the area even boasts the highest Starbucks in the nation.

The resort also boasts Monarch Snowcat Tours. I've heard talk that this operation might be the best snowcat experience in the state. So, with all the snow we've had this season, I figured now would be the perfect time to see for myself.

Cat skiing is designed for the skier who lives and breathes for the chance to make fresh tracks in deep snow. For many, it's the ultimate state of being, one that doesn't come often enough. But snowcat skiing offers the chance for a skier to make run after glorious run in fresh untracked bottomless snow.

And that was exactly the situation at Monarch.

Though I've skied with other Colorado snowcat operations, this was my first cat experience at Monarch. It also was my best cat- skiing experience.

A Monarch snowcat is unique in that it's plush and comfortably seats 10 to 12, not including the two guides who lead and sweep. The cab is airtight to keep the cold out, warms up fast when needed and ventilates quickly to keep skiers comfortable after a vigorous run. Just riding in the cat after each run was a treat in itself.

The day we skied was a picture-perfect Colorado day. Deep cobalt-blue skies sans clouds and comfortable ambient temperatures greeted us with a foot of fresh powder on top of bottomless conditions. Our group of 10 comprised strong skiers who fit surprisingly well together and kept a rapid pace.

The basics

* Monarch Mountain is 30 minutes west of Salida, atop Monarch Pass.

* Monarch Snowcat Tours charges $230 a person or $2,300 for a group of 12 through March 23. After that, the prices drop to $160 and $1,600.

* Reservations are required, so call ahead: 1-719-530-5040. For more details, go to skimonarch.com.

Steep and deep

* Monarch snowcat skiers are offered more than 1,100 acres of terrain.

* Runs vary in length (400 to 1,200 vertical feet) and pitch (30 to 50 degrees) and offer enough variety to challenge even the most competent of skiers. Because of the expanse of terrain, good skiing can be found in most every aspect.

* Depending on snow and wind conditions, the guides will seek out the best snow for maximum powder. Unlike heli-skiing, the snowcat runs regardless of wind or weather conditions.

Not for the timid

* Because conditions run the gamut, one must ski at the expert level and be comfortable in steep off-piste conditions.

* Skiers who are deemed to be in over their heads will be politely sent back to the resort for inbounds skiing.

* The more skilled your group, the more runs you get. Monarch Snowcat Tours guarantees 10 to 12 runs. But a strong group can lay down 15-plus runs in the course of a day.

Craig McNeil is a certified Primary Movements instructor. To order his book How To Ski the Blues and Blacks Without Getting Black and Blue or to reach him, go to his Web site, HowToSki.net.