A study in 'venti' capitalism

By Adam Goldstein, Special to the Rocky

Published December 28, 2007 at 12:05 a.m.

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Starbucked: A Double Tall Tale of Caffeine, Commerce and Culture

* Nonfiction. By Taylor Clark. Little, Brown, $25.955. Grade: A-

Book in a nutshell: Mention the word Starbucks to a barista at any independent coffeehouse, and you'll most likely receive a scowl or a screed. After all, the mega-chain is responsible for flooding the market with its cookie-cutter approach to coffee; by 2000, it had opened more than 3,500 outlets, and its current goal is to reach the 40,000 mark. With outlets as far flung as Beijing and Guantanamo Bay in Cuba, the chain may be responsible for its own venti-size brand of cultural imperialism.

But Clark argues that the unparalleled success of mom-and-pop cafes all over the world is tied directly to the explosive rise of the Starbucks siren, as the chain successfully transformed espresso from a specialty item into an American staple. In the process, it cracked open an enormous market for a host of imitators, many of whom capitalized on the antipathy of Starbucks- haters worldwide.

From its humble Seattle beginnings in 1971 as a specialty tea and coffee shop to its present role as an omnipresent monolith, Clark traces this cultural and economic phenomenon. He carefully charts the progress of the chain, and illustrates its unprecedented growth under the guidance of impresario Howard Schultz.

In the process, he touches on the history of coffee, even as he addresses the common complaints against Starbucks, from accusations that it deals unfairly with coffee growers to its seemingly bottomless appetite for growth.

Best tidbit: Clark details the chain's unique approach to vocabulary, one that has forever altered the concept of a simple small, medium and large scale: "Starbucks vanquished those dark ages, ushering in a world where customers had to keep detailed records of the various languages that stores required them to use before receiving goods and services . . . Starbucks has even trademarked the name of its largest size, 'venti,' despite the fact that it is the Italian word for 20 (that is, 20-ounce cup). 'One day, I expect to pick up La Repubblica and learn that Starbucks has purchased the entire Italian language,' said Bruce Milletto, a coffee consultant. 'It's insanity.' "

Pros: In writing about Starbucks, Clark manages to illuminate the entire coffee industry - an in-depth approach that will affect how readers look at their morning brew.

Cons: Clark jumps between topics rather abruptly, lending the book a jittery, caffeinated feel.

Final word: This is an eye-opening account of how one chain conquered the world market.

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