Big screen buyer’s guide

Darrell Proctor, Rocky Mountain News

Published January 22, 2007 at midnight

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The Super Bowl matchup is set. Now all you need is the HDTV to watch it on.

If you didn’t buy (or receive) an HDTV over the holidays, now may be the time to act, especially if you’re a sports fan. Manufacturers love to push their products before the Super Bowl, and plenty of other high-profile events (the Daytona 500, NCAA basketball tournament, the Masters) are only weeks away.

If you’re ready to begin shopping, here’s a starter kit of things to consider:

1. Type of set

Flat panel

Usually either LCD (liquid crystal display) or plasma. Most smaller sets are LCD, and most larger sets are plasma, though as technology improves LCD is becoming more of a factor among larger screen sizes.

Plasma sets provide good viewing from just about any angle and are known for their excellent contrast. LCD sets usually provide a higher resolution than plasma.

Rear projection

In the HD realm, these sets use either LCD or DLP (digital light processor) technology. (There remain some CRT — cathode ray tube — rear projection sets on the market.)

Rear-projection HD sets have often been larger (and heavier) than other units, but that’s been changing thanks to technological improvements.

Front projection

Most consumers won’t need to worry about this technology — it’s primarily reserved for home theater setups, where the image is projected onto a screen or wall.

2. Screen quality

Image resolution

There are three numbers you need to know — 480, 720 and 1080. They refer to the number of scan lines that a set can display, and the higher the number, the better the picture.

You’ll also see two letters — i and p. They refer to interlaced and progressive scanning. Interlaced means that the odd- and even-numbered lines are put together in a way that provides a blended image.

Progressive scanning means the odds and evens are put together progressively, without interlacing. It’s more demanding electronically but produces a smoother picture.

Most channels currently are broadcast at 480i — standard definition. Enhanced definition is 480p. High-definition is either basic, at 720, or full HD at 1080. It’s often difficult for the naked eye to see a difference between 720 and 1080, and it’s important to note that broadcast HD can only go to 1080i.

High-def DVDs, however, are often produced in 1080p. So if you want the best technology on the market, go with a "Full HD" set.

3. Screen size

A general rule: The bigger the screen, the bigger the price tag.

Don’t forget that in order to get the best viewing from a big screen, you’ll need to sit some distance away — probably at least 5 feet and more likely 7 to 9 feet. So make sure your space can accommodate that set you’re eyeing before you make a purchase.

Also remember that screen size is usually measured diagonally. As an example, you could have a set with a 55-inch screen — but the unit itself might be only 3 feet high.

4. Screen shape

Aspect ratio

It’s 4:3 vs. 16:9. Most TV programming is formatted to fit a screen that measures 4 units wide for every 3 units high — or almost square. But most HD sets, particularly big screens, are configured to perform more like you’re in a movie theater — hence 16:9.

Most DVD movies and HD programs look better on a widescreen (16:9), and they’re formatted that way. Remember that content designed to fit one screen will have to be stretched or condensed to fit the other, so you may see black bars at the top and bottom of the screen (or the sides) on some broadcasts.

5. Connections

Inputs

HDMI — High-definition multimedia interface. Look for at least two hookups, since this connection provides digital video and audio via a single cable. That makes it easy to hook up a set-top box (DVR) or DVD player.

A caveat: Older DVD players and set-top boxes probably won’t have HDMI capability, so you may have to upgrade to take advantage of this technology.

RF — Radio frequency. Used if you have an external antenna, older cable box (or no cable box, just a cable line) or older VCR.

Composite video — Uses three cords. Carries only a video signal and is used to hook up a cable box or VCR, or perhaps a game unit or camcorder.

S-video — Splits the video signal by color and luminance and can be used with a satellite system, DVD player or digital camcorder, or video game. If you plan to use the set to play video games or with a gaming unit, look for front or side-mounted composite video and S-video connections, which will make hookup easier.

Component video — Separates the video signal into three parts, two for color and one for luminance. It’s a common setup for cable and satellite receivers and DVD players, and better than S-video or composite.

DVI — Digital visual interface. Similar to HDMI, but a DVI input is only viable for video, not audio.

PC — Personal computer, since many of today’s televisions can also double as a computer monitor.

6. Savings tip

If you receive your television signal through a set-top box or cable that includes HD channels, you can save some money by buying an HD monitor without an HD tuner. Look for something labeled HD-ready. Cable and satellite subscribers can take advantage of these units — and their lower price tags.

If you need a tuner — if you’re not a cable or satellite subscriber — look for a set with an ATSC tuner to receive HD content. And for now, with many channels still available only in analog, make sure the set has an NTSC tuner as well.

7. The best deals

You’re likely to find the best prices on new sets at online retailers, but make sure you do your homework. You might find you’re more comfortable buying from a retailer you know, or at a bricks-and-mortar store to save on shipping.

In almost every case, you’ll save money by buying online or from a retail outlet — not direct from the manufacturer.

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