ROSEN: Quality on the cheap

Wednesday, July 11, 2007

For every e-mail I get asking me to recommend a $70 wine, I get 30 asking for a good wine for 5 bucks. Come to think of it, no one ever asks for a $70 wine.

Alas, a good $5 wine is next to impossible to find here these days. Not only has the strong euro jacked up Old World wine prices, but everything on these shores is subject to America's three-tier system, which ensures a good 30 percent bite for both wholesalers and retailers.

Two-Buck Chuck, the wine from California producer Charles Shaw made famous by its $1.95 price tag, is only available in a few states where Trader Joe's stores act as both retailer and wholesaler. The same wine in Colorado would cost a lot more.

But there are still plenty of bargains around. Don't expect complexity or exceptional, fascinating character. But you can certainly find solidly made, decent wine for everyday drinking. And put that in perspective: Pretty much all these wines are head and shoulders above the quality of most wine available throughout history until very recently.

So here are some of my favorite wine bargains of the year. Prices vary considerably from store to store, but all of these fall approximately into the 7-or-8-buck category. Better stock up now, before word gets out.

WHITE

• Argentina

Santa Julia Torrontés 2006, Santa Julia Viognier 2006

• Australia

Lindemans Bin 70 Chardonnay/Riesling 2004, Alice White Chardonnay 2005

• Chile

Santa Rita 120 Sauvignon Blanc 2006, Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2005

• France

La Noble Vin de Pays d'Oc Chardonnay 2005, Barton & Guestier Vouvray 2004

• Italy

Mezza corona Pinot Grigio 2006, La Cappuccina Soave 2005

• South Africa

Teddy Hall Chenin Blanc 2005

• U.S.

Gallo Family Twin Valley Moscato 2006, Columbia Crest Two Vines Chardonnay 2004, Beringer Chenin Blanc 2006, Covey Run Riesling 2005, Barefoot Pinot Grigio

RED

• Argentina

Alamos Malbec 2005

• Chile

Santa Rita 120 Carmenère 2005

• France

Moulin de Gassac Vin de Pays de l'Herault "Le Mazet" 2004, Chateau d'Oupia "Les Hérétiques" Minervois 2005

• Italy

Mezza Corona Pinot Noir 2006, Feudo Arancio Nero d'Avola 2005

• Portugal

Warre Altano Douro Red 2004

• South Africa

Excelsior Paddock Shiraz 2004

• Spain

Panarroz Jumilla Red 2005, Osborne Solaz Tempranillo/Cabernet 2005

• U.S.

Barefoot Merlot NV, Forestville Shiraz 2006, Pepperwood Grove Syrah 2003, Rex Goliath Pinot Noir

Jester@corkjester.com