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Meitus: Plant sale sweet on citrus herbs

Published May 9, 2007 at midnight

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When the International Herb Society named its herb of the year, lemon balm, Chris Ross and her herb committee at the Denver Botanic Gardens found inspiration.

"Given that there are only three kinds of lemon balm, and one of them is hard to get, we're taking it one step further," she says.

So, at this week's Denver Botanic Gardens plant sale, culinary gardeners will find a whole range of "citrus herbs." In addition to the lemon balm, which is a member of the mint family, citrus herbs will include lemon and lime basil, lime thyme, orange mint, lemongrass, lemon verbena and - perhaps the most interesting - margarita mint, an intense lime-flavored mint, with hints of tequila. (OK, I made up the tequila part.)

The 58th annual Plant Sale at the Botanic Gardens is open to the public 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday, and 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Saturday at 1005 York St. Call 720-865-3544 or go to botanicgardens.org for details. Gardens members may shop early both days, 8:30 to 10 a.m.

With herbs, vegetables, drought-tolerant plants, water plants, hanging baskets, perennials and annuals available, and horticulturists on site to answer questions, the sale has become an annual rite of spring. Unless, of course, Mother Nature has other ideas. In 2003, a snowstorm caused the second day of the sale to be canceled, when tents protecting the plants collapsed.

Then there are those unforeseen moments. In 2002, the International Herb Society, a professional trade association that picks an herb for the botanic members to feature for educational purposes each year, blindsided the Denver Botanic Gardens Guild with its choice of the herb echinacea. Because there were so few culinary uses for echinacea, Ross and the other herb folks chose their own herb of the year: thyme.

Actually, says Ross, this year's chairwoman for the herb section of the sale, lemon balm was a good choice.

"It's a hardy grower," she says. "It's not one of these little picky herbs. It's wonderful; it smells good; it's very attractive."

And it has a number of culinary uses. Even though it's commonly thought of for a nonculinary potpourri, here are some other suggestions from Ross with a few additions from The Spice and Herb Bible (Ian Hemphill).

• Steep the leaf in hot water for tea.

• Use it to flavor soups or sauces, or chop and sprinkle it on poultry or pork or fish. Try it in poultry stuffing.

• Chop it up in leafy green salads or fruit salads.

"It's really good in fruit salad," Ross says. When using it in a green salad, Hemphill suggests, cut back on the vinegar in the dressing so that the herb will add more tang.

If you've been to the sale, you know there will be lots of folks. Limited parking will be available, so consider taking the complimentary shuttle service to and from the sale from Church in the City, on the corner of East Colfax Avenue and Josephine Street.

Orange Lemon Balm Cream Cheese Spread

Makes 8 servings

1 8-ounce package cream cheese (can use low-fat, just makes a thinner spread)

2 tablespoons orange

marmalade

1 tablespoon orange zest

1/4 cup finely chopped lemon balm

• Blend all ingredients well.

If it seems too thick, use a little orange juice to thin.

• Let sit in refrigerator for at least 1 hour; overnight is better.

Nutritional information per serving: 111 cal., 10 g fat (6 g sat.), 31 mg chol., 4 g carb., 87 mg sodium, 0 fiber, 2 g pro.

Lemon Cream Scones

Makes 8

2 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

4 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

3 ½ tablespoons butter cut into small pieces (keep cold)

2 egg yolks, well-beaten

2/3 cup heavy cream

1 teaspoon lemon zest

2 tablespoons finely chopped lemon balm

• Stir together flour, salt, sugar and baking powder.

• With pastry blender (or forks), cut butter into dry mix.

• Add beaten egg yolks, lemon zest and lemon balm to cream and mix well.

• Stir the egg mixture and the flour mixture together to form a soft dough.

• Turn out on floured board and knead 6 or 7 times.

• Roll out about ½ inch thick and cut with a cookie or biscut cutter of you choice.

• Place on an ungreased baking sheet, brush with egg wash or milk and sprinkle with sugar.

• Bake at 450 degrees for 10 to 12 minutes until lightly browned. (Watch the bottoms; they seem to brown quickly.)

• Serve with the Orange Lemon Balm Cream Cheese Spread.

Nutritional information per serving: 230 cal., 10 g fat (6 g sat.), 80 mg chol., 30 g carb., 877 mg sodium, 1 g fiber, 4 g pro.