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Meitus: Baking-book mix just right

Published October 25, 2006 at midnight

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When I was a kid, I loved to bake. Just the basics, mostly because I wouldn't have known a croquembouche from a baked Alaska, and mostly because we were always out of some ingredient or other. (Does it speak to you that we had one cookbook in the house?) The happiest day of my life was the day I got an Easy-Bake oven. That was the day I found out that baking meant just-add-water - and you could have yummy results cooking from a light bulb in just a few minutes.

I no longer cook by light bulb and I've also discovered that I really do have an affinity for baking. How do I know? Because every time I get a new cookbook on baking, I pore over it. I may not make croissant dough from scratch, but I like to think that someday, maybe, when I'm too old to care about weight, calories and four sticks of butter, I just might.

Usually books that explore baking fall into two categories - recipe books with gorgeous pictures and no information, or reference books with too much information. That's why I love Gail Sokol's new book, About Professional Baking: The Essentials (Thomson Delmar Learning, $55). It has gorgeous pictures, recipes and just the right amount of reference information for everyone from the beginner to the semi-pro. I'm guessing even the professional could learn a trick or three.

Each chapter begins with a clear statement of what you'll learn. In the chapter on frosting, for instance, it states in part, "After reading this chapter, you should be able to: Define a frosting. List the seven categories of frostings. Correctly pair cakes with an appropriate frosting. Identify the basic tools needed to properly frost a cake. Prepare the frosting recipes in this chapter." Even if I don't learn all that, at least I know where I'm headed. She also includes easy-to-follow explanations of the scientific technical things such as the differences between yeast and quick breads.

Because I'm usually in a hurry (destination: not a clue), I'm kind of a careless baker. Butter's too hard? I toss it in the mixer anyway and stand back when the pieces go flying. Recipe calls for a cup of flour? I plunge the measuring cup into the bag, shake it a bit and smooth it with a finger. So what if it's not exact. If the recipe doesn't work under all conditions, it's too temperamental. I need a foolproof recipe - not, "If at first you don't succeed, waste time and money trying it again."

Still, I read with great interest Sokol's chapter on troubleshooting. Altitude issues notwithstanding, there have been times when I really wanted to know what I did wrong. If you've ever made a stretchy dough that snaps back like a rubber band, you know what I mean. Among the solutions I might try now: adding a small amount of citrus or vinegar to break up the gluten formation.

I'm still weighing whether to actually try any of the recipes while I prepare the teenager's favorite oatmeal cookies for the 100th time. As the too-hard butter ricochets around the room, I decide not to consult Sokol's book. I already know what I'll find. Problem: Butter's too hard. Solution: Nuke it for a second, dumbo. Or, "Just add water. And don't forget to change the light bulb."

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