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Lehndorff: Colorado delicacies await

Published January 27, 2006 at midnight

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I've been writing about food in Colorado for a quarter century. I should have felt like a truly savvy gourmet expert when I leafed through the second edition of Eliza Cross Castenada's Food Lovers' Guide to Colorado (Globe Pequot).

I noted tons of food markets, sausage makers, chocolatiers, farmers' markets, tea spots, events, wineries and restaurants, divided in the book by regions of the state, that I'd visited and recommended over the years

Instead, a wave of guilt washed over me. I tallied all the chuckwagon dinners, cheesemakers, fruit festivals, vineyards, diners and jam-makers in the far-flung corners of Colorado that I hadn't experienced yet.

I'm an imposter, a total Centennial State foodie newbie.

For instance, I've never been to Bender's Brat House in Aurora or Aspen's fabled sushi bar, Matsuhisa. By now, I should have already dropped by Vern's Toffee House in Fort Collins and the Delores River Brewpub in, naturally, Delores.

After reading this guidebook, I know I need to taste the sausage made at Joe Tomato Italian Delicacies in Pueblo, the fried chicken and pie at Berthoud's Wayside Inn and the smoked lobster and truffle bisque at Black Bear Restaurant in Green Mountain Falls. Finally, why in the world haven't I availed myself of the multiple pleasures sold at Confre Cellars & Fudge Factory in Palisade?

Then again, maybe I should cut myself a little slack. I have, after all, talked tamales at Denver's La Popular and hung with Julia Child at Aspen's Food & Wine Classic. I've judged oatmeal cookies at Lafayette's Oatmeal Festival, and sipped soup at the pricey Keystone Ranch.

I've been busy reviewing 300-plus restaurants and at least 100 bakeries since I began this all-consuming gig.

On this cold midwinter's day, I'll just sigh and fantasize about traipsing around Colorado this summer on a gastronomic tour de force going from flavor to flavor.