Safety comes first and last on ascents in winter

Brian Metzler, Special to the News

Saturday, December 16, 2006

If you've ever been frustrated by the crowded trail procession on one of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks in the summer, you might consider hiking one in the winter. Weather variables, inherent winter dangers and few trail users are among the reasons a winter ascent can be completely different from a summertime experience.

But, experts warn, you absolutely should not attempt to hike or ski any mountain in the winter unless you're fully prepared and understand the risks.

A high level of fitness, proper safety equipment and an understanding of snow conditions are paramount to any backcountry mountain experience, said experienced mountaineer Lou Dawson, the first person to ski all 54 of Colorado's 14,000-foot peaks and author of Dawson's Guide to Colorado Backcountry Skiing.

Quandary Peak (14,265 feet) south of Breckenridge and Mount Bierstadt (14,060 feet) southwest of Georgetown are considered two of the least difficult and least dangerous Fourteeners during winter. Each has a straightforward trail up a windblown ridgeline route that is relatively safe from avalanche danger.

But knowing specifically where to hike or ski, understanding what features to avoid and becoming proficient in hiking up boot-packed stair steps are among many other keys to safely hiking or skiing a Fourteener in the winter, Dawson said.

"There might be no direct danger of avalanches, but any ridgeline has the possibility of developing cornices or swales," Dawson said. "Sometimes the difference between safe and unsafe is a matter of inches, and sometimes it's very hard to judge where to walk."

Dawson suggests taking an avalanche safety course through the Colorado Mountain Club or from a winter mountaineering expert before considering any winter ascent. And, he said, an avalanche beacon, shovel and probe poles are absolute must-have items.

"I don't recommend someone going out in the winter in Colorado anywhere in the backcountry without avalanche safety equipment," he said. "I think it's irresponsible to themselves, to their family and to society to not do so. No human being can 100 percent predict whether there is an avalanche danger or not. It's very arrogant to think you can. To be humble and not arrogant, take the right safety gear and know how to use it."

There are plenty of other inherent dangers of climbing a Fourteener in the winter, as well as some that carry over from summer ascents. Being aware of weather changes, safeguarding against exposure to cold and maintaining optimal hydration and energy levels are crucial, said Marcus Beck, owner and head guide of Alpine World Ascents in Boulder.

Temperatures can vary as much as 50 degrees between the top and bottom of a mountain, so dressing in layers and taking extra clothing is a must, he said. Low visibility, snowed-over trails and changing snow conditions are among other primary concerns.

"Conditions can change dramatically from one day to the next during the winter or during the same day," Beck said. "The bottom line is that you shouldn't go out there unless you're fully prepared for it. And I wouldn't suggest anyone attempt a Fourteener in the winter if they haven't done several in the summer."

Avalanche safety courses

Below is a sampling of upcoming avalanche safety courses. Some are free basic overviews, others are intensive multiday classes with a registration fee:

• Jan. 2-5, High Mountain Institute, Leadville

1-719-486-8200; hminet.org.

• Jan. 5-7, Berthoud Pass

1-800-868-5429; AlpineWorldAscents.com.

• Jan. 17, Feb. 7, Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder 1-800-836-4008; TotalClimbing.com.

• Jan. 19-21, Rocky Mountain National Park

1-800-868-5429; AlpineWorldAscents.com.

• Jan. 30-Feb. 21, Red Rocks Community College, Arvada

303-914-6010; rrcc.edu.

• Feb. 21, REI flagship store, Denver

1-800-836-4008; TotalClimbing.com.