Langford: Aeration at root of healthy lawn
Published April 7, 2007 at midnight
Bluegrass lawns are well on their way out of dormancy, but they will welcome some TLC instead of the more aggressive methods recommended by some.
As this strong cool-season plant begins its greening, its emphasis is on the production of new roots and side shoots that thicken turf and repair winter damage from drought and temperature fluctuations.
Next, the plant will go into its leaf-growing phase and would appreciate some good lawn food.
Since all these steps require a healthy amount of leaf surface to carry on food production, or photosynthesis, don't start the season by mowing too short. Scalping the lawn on the first cutting removes a lot of winter brown, but it does little to improve your turf.
Summer isn't here yet, and a whacked-off lawn top exposes the crowns to temperature damage and drying out, or desiccation. While the grass struggles to regrow, food production is reduced and diverted from its proper course.
Dry spots are another concern. Pay particular attention to areas on the sunny side of evergreens, especially those close to the house or on south slopes. These are welcome sites to a number of grass-mite species that love to suck out plant juices and damage or kill your turf.
The first line of defense is a good soaking. Don't wait until these spots show browning; water now to prevent later damage. In fact, unless we get average spring moisture from nature, it's a good idea to water the whole lawn. That's not good for water conservation, but a strong lawn will better withstand a hot summer, and a strong lawn needs proper attention at the right time.
Plug aeration is one of the best steps for turf improvement. Aerating in spring and fall reduces stress and enhances sod. Don't remove the plugs; their soil base will dissolve and help break down thatch under it.
Aeration opens up tight sods to water, air and fertilizer. Growing roots will migrate to the holes, which are perfect incubators. Pulling out these plugs twice a year also stirs up the topsoil and redistributes micro-organisms that reduce thatch while hyping turf health.
Good aeration requires careful preparation and execution. If the sod isn't thoroughly wet, the plugging tines will bounce off the surface and do little good. The job also should be done slowly.
Another concern about spring mowing is the condition of the mower. Dull blades leave ragged edges, which invite disease organisms and create a brown, unattractive cast over the lawn.
If you're in the market for a new mower, consider the recycling types. They return to the lawn for reuse 75 percent or more of the fertilizer you put down. As the finely chopped blades quickly decompose (they're about 90 percent water), the locked- in nutrients are released into the soil for beneficial micro-organisms to chomp on and for grass roots to gobble up to make a stronger lawn.
And you won't have to lug the bag of clippings to the curb for pick-up.
Dale Langford is an area lawn and garden specialist.
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