A Bulldog with bite

John Lehndorff, Rocky Mountain News

Published March 28, 2007 at midnight

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When Isaac James talks about the food his mother and his aunt cooked when he was growing up, from chappli kebabs to saag paneer, his foreign accent grows strong. You can hear exactly where he's from: the suburbs of Chicago.

"I was born in Peshawar, Pakistan, near the Afghani border. I'm fluent in Pakistani, but I was really young when we moved to Joliet," said James, 41. "I remember a little of school there and the food (and that) there was a war going on."

Like many a Colorado resident, James came to play and stayed. "I wanted to rock climb, backpack and ski, so I had to find a job," he said. "Hey, it's at least a five-hour drive to wilderness from Chicago."

After a career that included owning a printing company and sales management, James and his cousin, Aamer Arboleda, opened the British Bulldog a year ago.

Generations of Denver imbibers know these premises well from its recent incarnation as the Stout Pub and for decades as the Punch Bowl.

James has added a few British beer mirrors and photos of bulldogs and Winston Churchill, the British Bulldog himself.

"I also chose the name because I was in the Marines. The bulldog is the Corps' mascot," James said.

Good Brit brews from Fuller's to Bass are served at the right temperature - slightly cooler than room temperature - and in a proper glass. You won't get a frosty mug from any freezer here.

When it came time to devise a menu, James knew he wanted to serve British pub classics, U.S. faves and some Tex-Mex items.

"But the big thing for me was to offer real Pakistani border food in Denver," he said.

James had some family recipes and brought out his aunt to get the kitchen organized and perfect the saag paneer recipe - spinach with house-made cheese.

"Our saag rocks!" James insists. The side of meatless curry with pita is a vegetarian favorite.

James also raves about his fusion Anglo-Indian sandwich, a baguette stuffed with spice-coated Peshawari chicken, bacon, provolone, lettuce and tomato. His Anglo-Indian meatballs are stuffed with provolone.

The place has been spiffed-up, but the same ornate, well-worn wooden bar remains with its stained-glass inserts. Most critically, the mountain landscapes painted on the high wooden booths have been preserved.

"They're part of Denver history," James said. "The legend is that a Native American artist traded the paintings for whiskey and food."

Sports play a big part in James' plan for this true, nostalgia-worthy Denver institution. The British Bulldog sponsors a local rugby team and opens at 7 a.m. on Saturday and Sunday to accommodate rabid fans of Arsenal and Manchester United who want to watch soccer games live from England.

Over the years, many famous folks have visited the premises, from Teddy Roosevelt to John Wayne and Elvis. Next, why not British soccer superstar David Beckham when his L.A. Galaxy team plays the Colorado Rapids?

"I'd be delighted to have him here - I'll say my prayers," said James, belly-laughing at the thought of the star coming to his humble pub.

THE LAST WORD: Aloo gosht salin (pronounced ah-loo goosht sahl-in) - spicy potato, tomato and lamb curry served with Pakistani-style basmati rice, pita bread and fresh cilantro chutney.

COMING FRIDAY: Look for dining critic John Lehndorff's review of Hoke's BBQ in Weekend Spotlight.

The British Bulldog

• What: British-style pub and restaurant serving English, Pakistani and American fare

• Where: 2052 Stout St.

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Monday-Friday; 7 a.m.-2 a.m. Saturday-Sunday

• Price range: $1.50-$12 appetizers; $6.50-$10 sandwiches and main dishes

• Information: 303-295-7974; britishbulldogdenver.com

• John's favorite items: Potato-filled fried samosas with cilantro chutney; wonderful spice-layered chicken masala with Pakistani rice; bright green saag paneer with creamy cheese chunks; spicy Peshawari chicken

• Also available: Green chile; shepherd's pie; bangers and mash; chappli (ground beef) kebabs; Cobb salad; deep-fried pickles; Philly cheesesteak; Greco-Indian sandwich with Peshawari chicken, bacon, tomatoes, red onion, feta and raita (yogurt cucumber sauce)

To nominate a restaurant for this column, e-mail lehndorffj@RockyMountainNews.com or call 303-954-5103.

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