Come and get it!

Foodies find divine dining in the scenic paradise of Home Ranch

Catherine Lutz, Special to the Rocky

Published February 21, 2007 at midnight

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CLARK - From the entrance gate of the Home Ranch hangs a lovingly carved wooden sign that reads, "Welcome Home." When you step though the doors of the main ranch house, the first evidence you see of that hospitality is a plate of homemade sweets - a different selection put out every afternoon.

There's plenty to do during a stay at the Home Ranch, a guest ranch 18 miles north of Steamboat Springs in the sparsely populated, bucolic Elk River Valley. It offers cross-country skiing and snowshoeing in the winter and horseback riding, fly-fishing and hiking during the summer.

Three times a day, in the ranch's spacious yet cozy dining room, guests gather around two long tables and settle down to the real reason many of them are here: an exquisitely prepared gourmet meal.

"That's why we're here - we're foodies," said Beth Preston, visiting the Home Ranch for the second time with her husband, Steve. Six years after their first trip, she said, the Tennessee couple still talk about the meals they had here.

All meals and snacks - plus the afternoon treats, hors d'oeuvres before dinner and chocolates left on your bed in the evening - are included in the price of a stay. Guests who choose to play all day may order a packed lunch. A rustic cabin along one of the trails serves as a gourmet picnic site.

For those who are serious gourmands, or just want to learn a little more about what they're ingesting, the Home Ranch offers kitchen visits, where groups can help prepare a meal, upon request. Cooking classes are offered in the fall, and wine tastings weekly in the summer (occasionally in the winter as well).

Chef Clyde Nelson and his kitchen staff of six specialize in using fresh natural ingredients in unique, innovative recipes. Everything is made from scratch before every meal.

"It's a simplistic approach - taste is the most critical aspect of food," said Nelson, who nevertheless rolls out a global range of styles at the Home Ranch. He describes his kitchen's approach as "applying classic techniques to contemporary Western cuisine."

Guests normally stay seven days, and each meal consists of three or four entrée choices.

"What impresses guests the most is the variety they get in a week in such a remote location," Nelson said.

In the morning and afternoon, guides are available to lead guests on the outdoor activity of their choosing, on or off the ranch. Visitors also may relax in their rooms - six rooms in the main lodge and eight unique cabins make up the ranch - or spend time in the cozy lounge, upstairs library or game room.

"This is the kind of place you have to work out during the day. Because otherwise . . ." joked Betsy Bakeman of Grand Rapids, Mich.

After a long and fulfilling day, dinner is where the chefs' creative prowess shines through. Nelson provides a working list with the main ingredients, from which the chefs discuss what they're going to do - so the emphasis is on the product.

A wild Atlantic salmon cut nearly 2 inches thick, for example, is cooked using a classic French technique - marinated, seared and then warmed through in the oven. A teriyaki glaze and topping of fresh cucumber salad with rice vinaigrette gives the dish an aromatic, Asian feel.

Succulent, homemade desserts and coffee or tea cap off the night, and guests may always order from the ranch's wine list or full bar.

Essentially, Nelson "hires very talented people who want to be away from the restaurant rigor and be creative," said chef de cuisine and sommelier Philippe Shapiro, who was born in Paris and worked in top spots in New York and Los Angeles before coming to the Home Ranch five years ago. Shapiro takes pride in the 60-bottle wine cellar representing respected vintages from all over the world.

While the staff seeks out fresh local ingredients, northern Colorado's long, cold winters mean food often must be imported. The Hayden airport is less than an hour away, so fish is flown in from Florida and Hawaii in the winter and from Alaska in the summer. Most of the meat comes from a Denver company.

The dining experience is heightened by the ambience. The dining room lights are dim enough at night to convey a relaxed feeling of dining by candlelight, although the conversation at the family-style tables can be lively.

"It's very interesting because at the long tables it's very social, but it's an intimate environment," said ranch manager Johnny Fisher, who often dines with the guests. "You get to know everyone, people become friends.

"Most people come to ski, eat and relax," Fisher said. He paused, then with a grin added, "Well, they come for the food and justify it by skiing."

breakfast

Huevos Rancheros, Home Ranch-style, starts the day off with a gourmet flourish. Breakfast usually includes fresh fruit, cereals, pastries, coffee and choice of a warm dish, such as lemon ricotta pancakes.

lunch

Duck breast salad awaits hungry diners one afternoon. Lunch is often organized with themes such as barbecue, Mexican, Cajun and Middle Eastern. A buffet table offers salads, pastas and freshly sliced cold cuts and cheeses.

dinner

Peppercorn-cardamom-crusted elk with fennel-tomato gratin, celery root-potato purée and a pinot-port reduction tempts gourmands. Other dishes include Muscovy duck with blackberry sauce or halibut with marsala demi-glace.

Home Ranch

homeranch.com 1-970-879-1780; info@homeranch.com

• Where: 18 miles northwest of Steamboat Springs, in the town of Clark

• Elevation: 7,200 feet

• Air service: 35 miles from Hayden/ Yampa Valley Regional Airport; 190 miles from Denver International Airport

• Average winter temperature: 26

• Average summer temperature: 72

• Accommodations: Six rooms in main ranch building, eight cabins

• Winter rates, including meals, transport and equipment: rooms start at $400/night (for two people); cabins start at $500/night (for two people). March special: Cost of third night's stay, only $50 per person.

• Summer rates, all inclusive: rooms start at $4,780/week (seven nights); cabins start at $5,285 (seven nights).

• Activities: Nordic skiing, backcountry skiing, snowshoeing, sleigh rides, tubing, alpine skiing (at Steamboat Mountain Resort), horseback riding, hiking, fishing, swimming, massage, kids programs

Dude ranch roundup

A dude ranch getaway is not too hard to find, as there are 30 around the state, according to the Colorado Dude & Guest Ranch Association. Visit coloradoranch.com to find the vacation of your choice, or consider the following options, which are similar to the Home Ranch. Each is known for its gourmet food.

• C Lazy U Ranch, Granby: A guest ranch since 1946 that takes seriously its cowboy heritage. Trail riding is offered on 8,000 acres and a 12,000-square-foot indoor heated riding arena is available during bad weather. 1-970-887-3344, clazyu.com

• Latigo Ranch, Kremmling: Known for its spectacular scenery.The porch provides a panoramic view of 100 miles of the Continental Divide. 1-800-227- 9655, 1-970-724-9008, Info@ LatigoTrails.com, latigotrails. com

• Vista Verde Guest Ranch, Steamboat Springs: Just a hop, skip and a jump up the valley from the Home Ranch. Upscale in terms of food and accommodations but offers a wide variety of adventure activities. 1-800-526-7433, 1-970-879-3858, vistaverde.com

• Smith Fork, Crawford: Borders Colorado's wine country and sits in the heart of an area known for its bountiful produce, fruit and game. 1-970-921-3454, smithforkranch.com

• Tumbling River Ranch, Grant: Offers the full range of recreational activities plus a taste of the historic Wild West, with trips to historic towns, rides on a narrow-gauge railroad, and horseback tours. Open May to October only. 1-800-654-8770, 303-838-5981, tumblingriver.com

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