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LEHNDORFF: Eateries on aisle 1

Published November 2, 2007 at midnight

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There I was, hanging out near the sushi bar and close to the Starbucks, with its couches and Wi-Fi, and not too far from the Jamba Juice kiosk and its flats of live wheatgrass.

To my left were the Asian and American hot buffets and the cold salad bar, and nearby were the made-to-order sandwich place, the hot pizza pod, the bakery nook with its artisan desserts and a counter where you can order a fried chicken dinner.

I wasn't dining at some huge, new super-buffet in the 'burbs. I was just doing my weekly grocery shopping at the neighborhood Safeway in Boulder.

It's hard to figure out who's winning the war to feed us, but judging by the foods on the shelves, the restaurant chains seem to be saying: If we can't beat the supermarkets, we'll just have them sell our food.

That would explain the Taco Bell Salsa Chicken Bowlz and Chili's Monterey Chicken I found at Safeway, plus, in the frozen aisle, Boston Market Roast Turkey Dinner and Bob Evans Sausage, Egg and Cheese Biscuits.

The frozen aisle was home to White Castle Cheeseburgers, T.G.I. Friday's Mozzarella Sticks, California Pizza Kitchen BBQ Chicken Pizza and Claim Jumper Country Fried Chicken Dinner.

The nation is represented by Ken's Steak House Buffalo Wing Sauce (from Massachusetts), Rao's Homemade Italian Herb Salad Dressing (from the famous New York eatery) and Smith & Wollensky Steak Sauce (from the national steakhouse chain).

In the beverage department, I located Trader Vic's Mai Tai Mix, canned Starbucks Ice Coffee, Dunkin' Donuts Coffee and A&W Root Beer.

Once I started really looking at all the shelves of prepared foods I typically ignore, I started seeing eatery logos everywhere.

For dessert, there's Carvel Ice Cream Cake and Marie Callender's Chocolate Satin Pie.

For now we'll skip the separate category of celebrity food ranging from (Paul) Newman's Own edibles and Jimmy Dean Sausage to Jeff Foxworthy Beef Jerky and Smokey Robinson's Red Beans and Rice.

In the crossover category is Margaritaville Sunset Shrimp Scampi from singer Jimmy Buffett's restaurants, named after his song celebrating an alcoholic island lifestyle.

Celebrity chefs are well represented, too, with Iron Chef Orange Sauce, Emeril's Steak Marinade, Chef Paul Prudhomme Gumbo Filé Seasoning and Wolfgang Puck Organic Chicken Noodle Soup.

What, no Rachael Ray Rata- touille?

Even the locals are in on the act, with Blue Parrot Spaghetti Sauce (from the venerable Louisville red sauce joint) and Lund's Swedish Pancake Mix (from the long-gone, legendary Denver eatery).

So why go out to eat and have to deal with tipping? You can eat restaurant fare from across the continent all week long and never leave home.

Second helpings

Izakaya Den

1518 S. Pearl St.; 303-777-0691,

izakayaden.net

• Grade: B+

• How much to bring: small plates $3 to $20, sushi $3.80 to $16

• Be sure to try: seaweed salad, udon noodle soup, scallops, anago sushi, salmon roll

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

1400 Arapahoe St.; 303-991-2277,

theoceanaire.com

• Grade: B

• How much to bring: starters $2.10 to $75, entrees $20 to $75

• Be sure to try: oysters on the half-shell, New England clam chowder, swordfish, pork porterhouse

Kao Shieng

8130 S. University Blvd., Centennial; 303-741-3900

• Grade: B-

• How much to bring: entrees $7.25 to $14.25, dim sum $2.15 to $11

• Be sure to try: dim sum and Chinese menu items including peppered prawns, beef chow foon, lo mein, pan-fried dumplings and scallop dumplings

Lola

1575 Boulder St.; 720-570-8686, loladenver.com

• Grade: A-

• How much to bring: starters $5 to $15, entrees $16 to $32, brunch $5 to $14

• Be sure to try: coastal Mexican dishes including tortilla soup, caldo de mariscos, made-at-the- table guacamole and escolar motuleños

The Corner Office

1401 Curtis St.; 303-825-6500,

thecorneroffice denver.com

• Grade: C+

• How much to bring: breakfast and brunch $2.75 to $12, lunch $3 to $16, dinner $3 to $17

• Be sure to try: American fare including fried chicken and waffles, Philly cheesesteak