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It's simple: Steuben's elevates comfort food

John Lehndorff, Rocky Mountain News

Published September 1, 2006 at midnight

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"It's Lychee Garden in Toronto in 1956," said one guest as she munched the craveable, candy-like Chinese ribs ($8) at Steuben's. No, said another, "it's the Chinese Palace in Topeka, Kansas."

The lacquered, dark brown pork rib pieces arrived in a sweet sauce atop chopped cabbage in a retro stainless steel bowl with a side of hot mustard.

For me, it was Steuben's spot-on versions of the Maine lobster roll ($16) and clam chowder ($5) that rocketed me back to the New England coast circa summer 1966.

A hot dog bun warmed on a griddle is overstuffed with large pieces of moist lobster meat dressed barely with a little mayo. The steaming chowder had just the right proportions of chopped clams, potatoes and creamy broth.

Retro doesn't quite capture how cool this renovated former garage is as it harkens back to several eras simultaneously. The '60s are represented by fake wood paneling right out of your parents' rec room plus vintage lamps and comfy beige booths. Add '50s-style floor tiles and dimple-back faux leather stools at the long, friendly bar where you can sip a bottle of Boylan's Birch Beer Soda ($3) or a can of Heileman's Old Style ($2.50).

There's a separate carry-out counter where vintage candies such as Sky Bar, Mary Janes and Blackjack Gum are also sold and curbside pick-up service is available. Both patios are eminently comfortable despite their proximity to 17th Avenue.

The irony is that all this heartfelt tradition is the brainchild of some of the hippest restaurateurs in town. Josh and Jen Wolkon own LoDo's highly successful Vesta Dipping Grill, which is famous for its eclectic menu sparked by dozens of highly spiced sauces, aiolis, chimichurris and salsas created by highly tattoo-ed executive chef Matt Selby.

The recently opened eatery is named after a Boston restaurant and entertainment venue operated by Josh Wolkon's great uncles from the 1940s to the '60s. However, labeling the fare served here as "comfort food" with all its mushy connotations doesn't do it justice, and it's not a nostalgia replica a la Gunther Toody's Diner.

Wherever you come from, Steuben's is a first- class meal ticket home. For instance, one dinner commenced with deviled eggs ($4) literally just like Mom used to make: halved hard-boiled eggs with the traditional creamy filling and a sprinkle of paprika and chives. That's all.

We loved the chewy habanero honey corn ($4), four deep-fried cobettes with a side of chile-powered honey butter, and were appetized by the little baked clams ($10) on the half shell with butter, garlic and crumbs. We were also charmed by the thin and intensely flavored lobster bisque ($6), boasting a garnish of tender tail meat.

The menu is refreshingly free of sourcing details and elaborate preparation and sauce descriptions. The fried chicken ($13) is first-class, fresh and juicy under a thin, crunchy crust with mashed potatoes, thin, properly made gravy and textbook round, barely doughy biscuits.

It requires Zen-like restraint on the part of a chef like Selby not to mess with stuff, to deliver mashed potatoes perfectly plain without "enhancing" them with roasted garlic or goat cheese or wasabi.

Taking the less-is-more steak frites approach, the skirt steak ($16) is an exceptionally juicy, well-grilled slab of medium rare delight gussied only with chimichurri butter and sided with must-try crisp thin fries.

New Orleans purists might find technical fault but to these buds the etouffee ($12) was a righteous, bountiful amalgam of crawfish, shrimp, chorizo and dirty rice.

The single, large beef short rib ($20) offered fall-apart meat with soft carrots, and the beautiful pan-roasted chicken ($14) with baby vegetables and natural juices could be served at any Denver bistro and you'd be charged dollars more.

These preparations are pseudo-simple, because it takes serious cooks, not short-order egg flippers, to craft a dish like cioppino ($20) and pan-fried, skin-on trout almandine ($15) and get it to the table tender and hot.

In reality, most of these dishes are much better than in the kitchens of our misty memories.

The kitchen also shines in the sandwich department, producing best-in- town versions of the batter-fried Monte Cristo ($8) and an irresistible griddled Cubano sandwich ($9) loaded with shredded roast pork plus ham, Swiss cheese, mustard and pickles.

Topping our long list of favorite sides were the crunchy, house-made pickles ($2), the fresh creamed spinach ($3) with just a little cream, nutmeg and crumbs, and the picture perfect baked mac-n-cheese ($3).

Desserts are also remarkable, not kitschy, recreations. With its powdered sugar frosting and rainbow sprinkles over moist, white cake, the cupcake ($2) is everything the supermarket version isn't.

Even the apple pie a la mode ($6) had a decent crust with soft apples inside and the truck stop chocolate cake ($5) was a towering wedge of homey, spongey, frosted sweetness.

Steuben's is still a new restaurant working out kinks as it copes with its booming popularity. In terms of food consistency, one biscuit might be brown and crunchy instead of white and soft. One order of corn on the cob was soggy, not sweet. The meatball sandwich ($8) needs work and shouldn't be served with unmelted mozzarella. The beef brisket ($14) was too tough to cut and chew.

The service we received during a series of meals was uniformly good with only sporadic problems getting all the entrees and sides to tables simultaneously. Also, sometimes at night the bar music and chatter overwhelms the dining area.

Overall, it was a joy for a change to see people really enjoying their food, not analyzing it. With its philosophy of sophisticated simplicity, Steuben's already feels like a place that has been here forever. One day 30 years from now some former Denver kid will sample dessert at some bistro and exclaim: "Ah, just like Steuben's butterscotch pudding ($5) in 2006."

Steuben's

• Hours: 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Monday- Thursday; until midnight Friday; 10 a.m.-midnight Saturday; 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. Sunday

• How much: $4-$12 starters; $4-$16 sandwiches; $8-$20 entrees

• Reservations: Six or more

• Information: 303-830-1001;

or 303-954-5103

Comments

  • February 17, 2008

    11:12 p.m.

    Suggest removal

    shanester writes:

    I guess the reviewer didn't eat there... or at least, didn't have to pay the bill.

    A $21 lobster roll? The "roll" did not contain but maybe 1/4 to 1/3 of a lobster. They said it was flown in fresh! If it was, then it was overcooked by several hours. Chewy -- like buble gum. Flavorless. In fact, Krab (that's imitation crab) has more flavor. The fries? Good, but for a $21 (1/4 lobster roll) sandwich, you would think you'd get MUCH more fries.

    The "Rock" shrimp Po-Boy was nothing more than regular shrimp. Many times frozen as it had a fishy smell. (Hint: Fresh Seafood.... ANYTHING ... does not smell like fish.) And it too was chewy beyond belief.

    The Hush Puppies? Not sure where the owner is from, but in the South, hush puppies aren't rolled in SUGAR! Hint... they are savory. And you get more than three tiny balls for $4. I mean... what the heck?

    The Mac'N'Cheese. Must've been microwaved Stouffer's frozen mac'n'cheese. If it WAS baked, it would have color, or a crust.... or some flavor!

    PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE.... Do not wast your money here. Four people spent $114 here (no drinks) and left hungry and dissapointed.

    The service (and music) is great. The food tastes like frozen cr*p you could do yourself for 1/10th the price.

  • February 17, 2008

    11:15 p.m.

    Suggest removal

    shanester writes:

    "There's a separate carry-out counter where vintage candies such as Sky Bar, Mary Janes and Blackjack Gum are also sold and curbside pick-up service is available."

    WOW... they have Blackjack gum.... Oooooooh. Did they charge you $8 for it? It's 4/$1 where I moved here from,

    Sorry... Blackjack gum does not make up for cheap, frozen, microwaved food that is overpriced.
    WAY OVERPRICED!